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Would recommend making it thicker, or coating in resin/glue before sanding to strengthen it. The tiny lip on the Pinwheel part nearly always deliminates, it's simply too thin. I needed Bondo to fill it and sand back all three times I printed it. The Emitter Bearing Outer part quite often delaminates on the flat, underneath section (the side facing "forward" when fully assembled") while sanding. The tolerances on the stem connector to the grenade are a little tooo tight - I've printed three of this model, and on two it's snapped clean off after a few connects and disconnects. I would recommend a different way of securing the switch. I had to seek an alternate part, a slightly lengthened pin, on ThingiVerse designed as a replacement. Feedback: The securing pin is a little too short, and shears very easily. Printed on: PP3DP - UP! mini Result: Great design, very well put together model with good tolerances between parts and an excellent finish. Any thicker and it will push the grenade and heatsink a little too far out to fit nicely in the clamp. You may actually need to trim off part of the disk spacer to make space for the buttons sometimes if it doesn't fit. The disk spacers can't be thicker or it'll mess with the fitting. The overhang angle of the grenade should be able to print fine without supports as long as you have proper cooling. Here is a recent print from a UM2 on PLA: This model was designed to be printed on PLA however, and you may experience issues as you have with ABS. It was difficult to make small pieces of anything on it, but it was decently good at larger parts. I had a Up mini to use for a while and there's just no adjusting anything on that printer, it either works or it doesn't. PSA - This is a longer switch with additional bits for proper - The delamination and build-plate sticking issues are unfortunately ABS problems as are the grenade overhangs.